Chechnya

WARNING: Chechnya is most emphatically not a tourist destination and not safe for independent travel or sightseeing. Most foreign governments advise against non-essential travel. Those visiting for business, research, or international aid purposes should consult with their organization and seek expert guidance before planning a trip.


Chechnya (Russian: Чечня́ cheech-NYAH; Chechen: Нохчийчоь/Noxçiyçö) or Chechen Republic (Russian: Чече́нская Респу́блика chee-CHYEHN-skuh-yuh rees-POOB-lee-kuh; Chechen: Нохчийн Республика Noxçiyn Respublika) is a republic within the Russian Federation.

Cities

Understand

Nominally part of Russia since the early 19th century, fiercely independent Chechnya has been in a near constant state of rebellion ever since the approach of Russian power. At times throughout the history of this conflict, including very recent times, Chechen rebellion has spread to neighbouring regions and threatened the spectre of a multi-ethnic Muslim rebellion across the entire northern Caucasus. What is most important for the traveller is that the anti-Russian violence as well as the Russian military response have been spectacularly brutal, purposely victimizing whoever is most vulnerable: the everyday Russian Federation citizens (Russian and Chechen alike) unfortunate enough to live here and, yes, outsiders who are foolish enough to walk into this danger zone. The region is desperately poor, plagued by enough problems already.

One of the most traumatic episodes of violence took place following the Second World War, when Stalin accused Chechens of collaborating with the Nazis and mass deported the entire ethnic Chechen populace to the cold steppe of northern Kazakhstan. Provisions were not made to ensure that the deported Chechens had a good chance of surviving the deportation. Survivors were later allowed to return under Khrushchev. In one of the most horrific events of recent times, the radical Chechen rebel leader Shamil Basayev ordered his commandos to take hostage a primary school in Beslan, North Ossetia resulting in a shocking massacre of innocent schoolchildren.

Chechnya was safe for travel during Soviet rule, but travellers, don't hold your breath. Wide-scale violence has become the norm of this tragic region.

On a lighter note, Chechnya is a country of extraordinary beauty, full of majestic mountains with lush vegetation and auls (mountaintop villages) rising above the tree lines; rapid rivers have cut spectacular gorges throughout the region. Chechen culture is distinctly romantic and chivalric. It is at once steeped in Islamic Sufi mysticism and in the macho codes of hardy mountain tribes. The Chechens have a distinct culture of Caucasian music and dance. The Chechens traditionally follow a strict code of honour and hospitality to accepted guests; unyielding hostility and violence towards enemies. All this could make Chechnya an intoxicating destination for the adventurous, but the present security situation should rule out this destination to all but the hardiest of travellers.

The present situation is taking an improvement, however on a light scale. The region is headed by the autocratic Kadyrov family. More recently, the government has allowed foreign companies to develop, if neglected rich oil resources, which have brought wealth to the country. Yet, the money falls in the hands of a few people. While Grozny is full of new construction and a rising middle-class, much of the region remains poor. Corruption is much more widespread in Chechnya than in some of its neighbours.

Get in

By plane

Chechnya's airport is finally open again for the first time since the start of the war. Planes to Grozny leave 3 times a week from Moscow's Vnukovo airport. Estimated flying time is 2 hours and 30 minutes.

By train

A train leaves from/to Moscow once every 2 days. This train is under heavy security by the Russian military so expect long delays and possibly other hassles. Caution must be exercised when travelling by rail in Chechnya due to potential terrorist attacks. In 2005 a train travelling from Moscow to Chechnya was derailed during a bombing.

By bus

A daily bus leaves from and to Nazran in equally unstable Ingushetia. Small buses leave from and to many Caucasian, south-Russian cities.

Talk

Chechen and Russian are the two main languages spoken in Chechnya. Remember that the political situation is very tense — a foreigner speaking Chechen may attract unwanted attention from the authorities. English on the other hand is spoken by almost nobody, even in the capital.

Buy

Chechnya is famous for its traditional swords and daggers.

Costs

Due to the economic consequences of the war, things in Chechnya are very cheap. But do not expect to find everything you are looking for. There's not much to find in Chechnya except for carpets, daggers, etc. Supplies are also somewhat limited.

Eat

There are presently not many shops in Chechnya. However, restaurants and cafès are slowly re-opening and new ones are being built.

Drink

There are no night clubs or discos in Chechnya. However, beer is sold on the street in Grozny. Common sense should be used when drinking alcohol, especially in danger zones. Alcohol may be legally sold only from 08.00 to 10.00 and prohibited at all other times.

Sleep

More and more hotels appear. The flagship is the 5-star Grozny City, near the Presidential Palace, which has English-speaking staff.

Stay safe

As of 2007, independent analysts said were no more than 2,000 separatist combatants still fighting. By travelling to Chechnya you are taking a serious risk. Kidnappings and unexploded mines and munitions are widespread, while terrorist activity and shootings still occur on a lesser scale. Throughout the region, local criminal gangs routinely kidnap foreigners, including Americans, Canadians and UK nationals, for ransom. Close contacts within the local population does not guarantee safety. Before visiting, consider watching the Russian popular film Война (War), which may help inform your final decision.

Many foreign governments, including the UK, Canadian and US governments, strongly warn their citizens not to travel to Chechnya under any circumstances. They report that there have been many incidents of their citizens visiting there as well as Russian citizens being missing, killed, or kidnapped for ransom.

If you still feel determined to experience the beauty of Chechnya despite the accompanying dangers, you may want to consider visiting the Pankisi area of Georgia instead. The security situation there has stabilized enough for reasonably safe travel, it looks very similar to Chechnya, and it is full of Chechen refugees who may be much more approachable than in Chechnya.

Stay healthy

The civil war may be over in Chechnya, but the situation is far from secure and basic necessities are often relatively scarce. It would be wise for one to assume that some necessities may not be available there, so get everything you need before visiting the region.

Working plumbing, heat, and electricity are valuable commodities in parts of Chechnya due to a failing infrastructure that is the result of years of conflict. Be sure to sanitize all water or bring bottled water.

Respect

Remember that Chechnya is a strongly patriarchal Sunni Muslim society, so try to behave accordingly. Women travellers are advised to exercise particular caution, and should seriously consider bringing a male escort for their own protection.

Connect

Mobile

In Chechnya there are two Russian federal GSM operators (Beeline, Megafon) and they often have offers that give you a SIM card for free or at least very cheap. If you are planning to stay a while and to keep in touch with locals, you should consider buying a local SIM card instead of going on roaming. To buy a SIM card from a shop you'll need your passport for identification.

This article is issued from Wikivoyage - version of the Wednesday, May 27, 2015. The text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution/Share Alike but additional terms may apply for the media files.