Changchun

Looking toward Culture Square

Changchun (长春; Chángchūn; lit. Long Spring) is the capital of Jilin Province and was formerly the capital of the Japanese puppet state of Manchukuo. With a population of more than 6 million, it is one of the major cities in Northeast China (东北; Dōngběi), and is the largest center for China's automotive industry. In 2007, the city hosted the Asian Winter Games.

Despite its relatively high population and economic importance, Changchun has a lot of greenery, especially stands of pine trees, and though it is a draw for university students and some investors, it is not a major tourist destination, which is probably one of the reasons people who do visit this city are likely to meet friendly people who are interested in speaking with them, not necessarily to sell them anything but just out of curiosity.

Understand

History

The ancient period

Changchun in its present form is a new city with only about 200 years of history. But there used to be a city thousands years ago known by different names. The ancient city changed its name several times, 'Xidu', 'Helong', 'Tiangang' (Han Dynasty), 'Shushan' (Tang Dynasty), 'Longzhou' (Liao Dynasty), and 'Kuancheng' (Jin Dynasty). Eventually, Kuancheng was destroyed by the Mongolian army, leaving nothing except mention of its conquest in the annals of history.

In 1800 (Qing Dynasty), Emperor Jiaqing decided to build a town, as one of the junctions on the way from the capital Beijing, to the Changbai Mountains, the holy mountains of Qing royalty. The Emperor gave the reborn town a name with a blessing: 'Changchun'. In some tales, this new name came from a couplet made by the Emperor Qianlong, the father of Jiaqing. This couplet was made when the old emperor was on his way to the Changbai Mountains, to praise the spring-like summer of the Changchun area.

The Semicolonial period

After defeating China in the first Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895), Japan had desires to expand, including plans to conquer the eastern lands of Fengtian Province (Liaoning Province today) from China. This expansion clashed with the wishes of Russia, France, and Germany; Japan had to settle for money from China instead (about 30 million liang). For their part, Russia got the rights to build a railway in the sought-after lands.

In 1896, Russia built a railway station and a settlement in Changchun.

In 1906, Japan defeated Russia in the Russo-Japanese War, and gained the rights to the railway in southern Northeast China. Changchun became the junction between the Japanese-owned South Manchurian Railway and the Russian-owned Chinese Eastern Railway, which had different rail gauges and permit licenses. There were railway repair shops, and branch lines originating in Changchun extended into Korea and Inner Mongolia.

An epidemic of pneumonia occurred in many parts of Manchuria from 1910-11.

On 18 September 1931, Japan invaded Manchuria. The leader of the area, Zhang Xueliang, commanded his army to retreat without counterattack, and pinned all his hopes on the intercession of the League of Nations.

The city's name was changed on 1 March 1932, to Xinjing (新京), the capital of Manchukuo, and Pu Yi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, was its designated overseer. The new tenants gave it a grand blueprint with broad avenues and modern public works. The city underwent rapid expansion in both economy and infrastructure and provided materials for Japan's wars.

The Chinese people were forbidden to learn their own language and culture, as they were now under the control of the Japanese Empire. Life for those living in the newly controlled areas was cruel.

The Civil War

The area changed hands again when on 20 August 1944, the Soviet army took over the city. They stayed until 4 April 1946, and took away all the machines and materials they could move. At that time, the army of the Republic of China took over the city. Two months later, the Chinese Civil War began, and Changchun once again became a battlefield.

From May to October 1948, the Kuomintang army was besieged by the Communist army. The Kuomintang army looted food from citizens and the Communists forbade anybody to leave. At last, the Kuomintang army surrendered and the Communist army captured the city.

Today

A few years after the Civil War, in September 1954, Changchun became the capital of Jilin Province. Nowadays, it is a quiet northern city having short, windy springs and cool summers. It is also an important domestic optical research center, along with automobile and train manufacturing bases.

New train tracks have been laid, decades after world powers fought for its resources. On 27 May 2010, China's fastest high speed train, the 380A which can reach 380 km/hr, began operations as the city continues to make its own history.

Districts

Changchun has a total of 6 districts, 3 other cities and 1 county. Five of the districts are close to the city centre: 

Further afield are:

The city is home to the following special economic zones:

Climate

 Climate Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
 
Daily highs (°C) −10 −5 4 14 21 26 28 26 21 13 2 −7
Nightly lows (°C) −20 −16 −7 2 9 16 19 17 10 2 −8 −16
Precipitation (mm) 3 5 12 22 50 100 161 122 52 29 10 5
Sunshine (hrs/day) 6.1 6.9 7.7 8.0 8.4 8.3 7.1 7.6 7.8 6.9 5.8 5.3

Changchun has a monsoon-influenced climate, with great seasonal temperature extremes. Winters are long, very cold, and windy, with a January average high temperature of −10 °C (14°F). However there is little snow and the air is dry. Summers are very warm and humid, with extended periods of 30°C (86°F) highs, though the average high in July is 28°C (82°F).

Get in

By plane

Changchun Longjia International Airport (长春龙家国际机场; IATA: CGQ) has been in operation since September 2005 and is around 30 km east of city center. It replaced a smaller military airport that had been adapted for commercial use. The airport is large and clean, and passengers can find standard amenities such as restaurants, cafes, shops, lounges, credit card acceptance, etc. For first class passengers there are two lounges available, but the standard is far below of the lounges of international airports.

Different local flight destinations are available, but the major routes throughout the day are to domestic destinations Shanghai (2:20 hours) and Beijing (1:40 hours). There are also some international flights to Incheon and Nagoya.

From the airport there are regular coach services (¥20-30 one way) available to the center (e.g. People's Square (人民广场)). Travel time is around 45 minutes. A taxi to/from the city costs around ¥80 including toll, but from the airport to the city most of the taxi drivers reject a drive if you are not willing to pay at least ¥100 (do not discuss it, do it or take the bus).

By train

Changchun has four passenger railway stations: Changchun Railway Station (长春站), Changchun South Railway Station (长春南站) and now Changchun West Railway Station(长春西站). Changchun South Station is very small and only local trains stop there. Changchun West is the newest and this is where the High Speed Trains (D and G trains) depart.

Changchun Railway Station (长春站; Changchun Zhan) is located at the north end of Renmin Avenue (人民大街). Although it is large and chaotic, providing you read Chinese and speak some Mandarin and are prepared to fight through the queues, you can buy a ticket to almost anywhere in China from here.

Thanks to the railroad-building efforts of Japanese in the early- to mid-1900s, the rail network in Northeast China is extensive and no place is very far by rail. (All times approximate.)

Rail travel is by far the cheapest way to travel in and out of Changchun. If you do not want to go to the train station yourself, you can go to any good travel agent who will do this on your behalf, usually for ¥10-20 extra.

By bus

There are long distance coaches that regularly go from/to Beijing available from the coach station on Huanghe Road (黄河路), just off Renmin Avenue (人民大街). There is also a long distance bus station at the south end of Renmin Avenue (take bus Z306 from the train station).

You can also catch coaches and buses from pretty much anywhere in Jilin Province, though they have a reputation for being dangerous and are slightly more expensive, though faster, than the train.

The main Long-Distance Bus Station is at 226 Renmin Avenue.

Get around

Changchun is a very compact city planned by the Japanese with a layout of open avenues and public squares (guǎngchǎng). It is pretty easy to travel from one place to another; however, with the increase in private car ownership, traffic is getting worse by the day.

By taxi

Taxis are by far the best way to get around. They are cheap but you should have a piece of paper with the address in case you do not speak Mandarin. Taxi fares start at ¥5 up to 2.5 km (plus a mandatory ¥1 fuel surtax), after that ¥1.30/.5 km. Several taxi companies are serving the city and they will not try to cheat you. It is common for drivers to pick up other passengers who might be going in the same direction if there are unused seats.

However, in case driver is taking you in circles - in this case complain for example at the hotel drop-off point. The staff there normally will support you in such cases. For other cases simply pay not more than shown on the meter. In general: Make sure you know the name of the places you are going to in Mandarin or have a paper with the Chinese address with you. It would not hurt either to travel during the day and have one of Shangri-La's English maps, or even one in Chinese from Xinhua bookstore.

On foot

From May to October, Changchun is a decent walking city, as the weather is fine and there are no hills. The city does tend to be spread out, so travelers should plan on using other forms of transportation. During the winter months temperatures are too cold to walk longer distances in Changchun, so other forms of transport should be considered.

Changchun light rail

By light rail

Changchun light rail (轻轨; qīngguǐ) Line 3 currently goes from the west side of the train station (长春站) to Changying Movie Wonderland (长影世纪城). It travels past Changchun University (长春大学) approximately half-way along the route, and takes 63 minutes to complete the entire journey. A ticket, purchased at any light rail station, costs ¥1-4 each way, based on the distance traveled. Operates 6AM-9PM daily.

A new south-north route (Line 4) completed in 2012 runs on Linhe Street. It northern terminals is the New North Railroad Station and southern terminal is the new government center at CheChang.

Free transfer between Lines 3 and 4 can be had at the LinheJie (Line 3) and WeixingLu (Line 4) stations.

By bus

An extensive bus network and most of the buses cost ¥1; however, those who can not read Chinese will find it nearly impossible to use the network.

Most buses go to the bus station outside the train station, and other central areas such as Guilin Road (桂林路), Chongqing Road (重庆路) and Hongqi Street (红旗街). Be aware that the buses are often extremely crowded and especially uncomfortable during the hot summers as there is no air conditioning.

Important bus numbers include:

By tram

Despite the city once having the most complex tram system in Northern China, there is now only one remaining route still open. The number 54 runs down Hongqi Street (红旗街) to the far west of the city (where there really is not much). Many of the trams still in use today are the original cars from 1940, so it is worth the ¥1 ride just for the experience of yesteryear.

By minibus

If you are in need of an adrenaline rush, look no further than one of the minibuses that tear around the city streets. Some places out in the suburbs are only serviced by such buses, and the fare is usually ¥1-2, but the drivers seem to think that they are on a giant racetrack most of the time and you will get thrown around. Expect the front passenger to sit at the side-door, calling out to potential customers, and to be encouraged to hop on the bus while it is moving ever so slowly. If you were old, they would probably stop, or expect you to take a taxi for a little more. Very crowded at times.

By bicycle

Travelers should be cautious of bicycling in Changchun. For half the year it is generally too cold and during the summer months, too dangerous. Unlike other big cities in China, Changchun does not separate cycle lanes from the main traffic, which leads to buses, taxis, cars, and motorcycles sharing the same space as the cyclists. The whole situation is dangerous and this is perhaps the reason why by Chinese standards there are few people who regularly cycle here. The other problem is that because of the city's layout, there are plenty of large roundabouts where 4 or 5 busy roads converge on one another, making it extremely difficult to cycle without having to continually dismount.

If you want to bike around, it is recommended that you follow closely behind one of the local people on cargo-bike, merchant-bike, or donkey. There are off times during the day when biking would be less challenging. Drivers are not overly aggressive towards bikers.

By three-wheeler

There are brightly coloured three wheel plastic taxis, available from near Changchun University (长春大学), which only operate for short distances in the south of the city. If you are in the Jingyuetan (净月潭) part of town, this is the easiest mode of transport as there are few taxis operating there. It is fairly easy to find a taxi anywhere in Jingyuetan. They are cheaper and slower than regular taxis. There is no meter, so expect to negotiate with the driver. A typical ride should not exceed ¥3.

By motorcycle

If you need to get somewhere fast then jump on one of these. They generally hang around in the south of the city and out in the suburbs. They are unlicensed to carry fare paying passengers, so bear in mind that if there is an accident, you might find yourself in trouble. However, they tend to drive in the cycle lanes at quite low speeds and so are safer than you might expect. Expect to pay as little as ¥1 for a short trip.

See

the Puppet Manchukuo government's State Department 伪满洲国务院

Military Department 军事部(治安部)address: No.1 Xinming Street. Now it is The Jinlin Univ No.1 Bethune Hospital.

(Right across the street at No.2 Xinming Street is the Puppet Manchukuo government's State Department 伪满洲国务院.)

Economic Department 经济部 address: No.5 Xinming Street. Now it is The Jinlin Univ No.3 Hospital.

Transportation Department 交通部 address: No.7 Xinming Street. Now it is The Jinlin Univ's College of Public Health.

Justice Department 司法部 address: No.6 Xinming Street. Now it is The Jinlin Univ's Bethune Medical Department.

Agricultural Department 兴农部 address: No.20 Ziyou Ave. Now it is The Northeastern Univ's affiliate high school.

Culture and Education Department 文教部 address: No.18 Ziyou Ave. Now it is The Northeastern Univ's affiliate primary school.

Welfare Department 民生部 address: No.77 Renming Street. Now it is Jilin Province Petrochemical Engineering Institute.

Foreign Affairs Department 外交部 address: No.1 Puqing Hutong. Now it is Jilin Province Academy of Social Sciences.
free.


Mao Statue at Former Site Museum Of Changchun Film Studio 长影旧址博物馆
China FAW Group Corporation 中国第一汽车集团公司 main building

Do

Learn

Changchun is a very good place to study Mandarin. The following places provide various courses for all levels:

There are also private training centers that will provide either small group Mandarin lessons, one-on-one lessons, or even a home tutor. The rates are around ¥40 for a one hour or longer lesson with a professional teacher.

Buy

Currency exchange is available at the airport, various hotels and banks, including Bank of China on Xi'an Dalu (西安大路).

There are three major shopping areas: Chongqing Road (重庆路; Chóngqìnglù), Guilin Road (桂林路; Guìlinlù), and Hongqi Street (红旗街; Hóngqíjiē).

Local products

Shops

Eat

Very good flatbread is available in Changchun. Look for it on the streets or in markets.

Drink

Beer (啤酒)is probably the cheapest and safest thing to drink - and being Northeast China - comes in many varieties and is available almost anywhere. A big bottle (630 ml) should cost between ¥3-6. In the summer months good draft beer is available from most small restaurants, the black beer(黑啤) being particularly good.

Huadan (华丹), Jinshibai (金士百) and Yinpu (银浦) beers are all brewed in Jilin Province. There are also various Harbin beers (哈尔滨啤酒) available, as well as Bing Chuan (冰川) from the Korean prefecture of Jilin Province.

Like all cities in China, avoid drinking bottled water from street vendors and try instead at a supermarket or convenience store.

Bars

There are a number of western-style pubs in Changchun. There is a really big bar and club scene on Longli Lu (隆礼路) which are pretty hot during weekends. The beer there is cheap, about ¥6/cup. Occasionally there are some parties which are organized by "Changchun Friends" or foreign teachers. Usually, they play the music themselves. The atmosphere is quite comfortable and people are very nice.

Sleep

Budget

Not many true budget options exist, and a number of hotels will not accept foreigners, for example Home Inn next to the Train Station. Good areas with lots of hotels are south of the train station (along Renmin Street) and the north part of Hongqi Street.

Mid-range

Splurge

Go next

Harbin is about 3 hours away by train. Train trips to Shenyang vary in length but can last as little as 2 hours. Trains to Jilin city take 45 minutes.

Routes through Changchun

Beijing Siping  W  E  Harbin


This article is issued from Wikivoyage - version of the Sunday, September 13, 2015. The text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution/Share Alike but additional terms may apply for the media files.