How to Surf a Wave

The Pipe: an awesome tube-like wave of water that looks even more impressive with a surfer hanging through ten of its green walls. Do you want to learn how? Read ahead!


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    Rent or borrow a surfboard with a leash. A foam board or a long board are the best choice for a beginner.
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    Get to the beach.
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    Enter the water with your board under your arm and attach the leg leash to your rear ankle.
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    Lie flat on your board and paddle to the area where the waves begin to crash, with your head in the front of the board. Lie belly down on your board.
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    Walk out to an area that is about waist deep and where the waves are breaking gently.
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    Turn the board so it faces the shore.
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    Lie in the prone position and start paddling gently when the wave is a few meters away. As you feel your board being picked up by the wave give an extra two or three powerful strokes to match your speed with the wave.
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    Watch for other surfers with priority to you, those closest to the breaking part of the wave have this priority. If you take off in front of them, this is called snaking them. This is not cool and could end up in the surfer shooting his board at you or fighting you. This is the one rule most new surfers (0-5 years experience) lack. Like preschool on the swings, you have to take turns and there are no cuts.
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    Quickly standing up on your board is known as a pop up. To do this you should place your hands under your shoulders on the surfboard. Then do a push up while springing off your legs and toes, this will give you enough height to get your feet underneath you, one foot in front of the other and almost perpendicular to the middle of the board.
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    Surf on the face of the wave. Lean to one side or the other to turn.
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    Ride the wave until it tapers of or closes.


  • Start out on small waves!
  • Practice, practice, and practice.
  • Don't learn how to surf in crowded areas, find an uncrowded area away from surfers that have experience.
  • Take a wave that crashes far out and not on the beach.


  • Choose the right wave. Reef breaks and shore breaks can be dangerous.
  • Be very careful when you do this.
  • Do not touch, or let your board touch, the impact of zone of your barreling wave. This may snap your board (and you).
  • Stay within your limits.

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Categories: Surfing