How to Create a Makeshift Belay Device Using an Ordinary Biner

To make a makeshift belay device with one 'biner, one needs to use a Münter hitch.

Steps

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    1
    Make a loop of rope
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    Take the lower tail of rope and wrap it over the loop
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    Clip into carabiner (both loops)
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    To belay, "brake in-line with the load strand", rather than pulling back on it like you would with an ATC.

Tips

  • Can be used off an anchor or directly off the harness
  • Can be the "power point of an anchor"
  • Can take in a very long rope in a very short time.
  • Can be used for belaying or rappelling , but rapelling with the Münter is very difficult and not recommended as the twist will wrap around itself.

Warnings

  • Requires a very strong brake hand - but can provide more stopping power then most plate belay devices, (i.e. an ATC)
  • You should use extreme caution using this system, because your brake position is UP (or, more accurately, you have the most stopping force when your brake hand is next to your climbing line - complete opposite of nearly every other type of belay device)
  • Should be used in a last resort
  • Will kink your rope if used a lot. (but wont kink it any more than a Fig. 8)

Things You'll Need

  • 'biner
  • rope
  • belayer
  • harnesses

Article Info

Categories: Climbing